TL;DR: washer not draining or spinning
- Washer not draining? Start with the cheap causes: a kinked or clogged drain hose, a clogged pump filter, too much detergent. Many front-loaders have the filter behind a small panel at the bottom front.
- Washer not spinning? The washer will not spin if it thinks the lid or door is open, or if the load is unbalanced. Check both before you call.
- Hum or grind with a full tub? Stop running cycles and unplug it. That points to the drain pump, and repeat cycles can burn the pump out.
- Washer repairs run $150 to $450 all-in, with parts, labour and a written 90-day warranty. The $89 visit is credited when you approve the repair.
- Need a technician? Same-day service, 24/7, 365 days. Call us at 647-834-4646.
A kinked or clogged drain hose, a clogged pump filter or too much detergent can all keep water in the drum. A lid or door that has not latched, or a load that has gone out of balance, can stop the spin. The two faults overlap, so if you have a washer not draining and spinning, work through the drain checks first and the spin checks second.
This is the order to check things in, with the safe checks you can do yourself and the point where it becomes a repair. In short:
- Pause: many washers stop between stages for up to about 3 minutes, so wait.
- Suds: a drum full of foam can mean too much detergent.
- Hose: look for a kinked or clogged drain hose at the back.
- Standpipe: check the hose is not pushed in too far, and test the pipe with a jug of water.
- Filter: on many front-loaders, clean the pump filter behind the bottom panel.
- Lid or door: the washer will not spin if it thinks the lid or door is open.
- Balance: spread out or remove part of a packed or lopsided load.
- Stop line: a hum or grind with a full tub means the pump, so stop running cycles and call.
If you only want the price, jump to what the repair costs.
Which problem do you have?
Look at the drum, then pick your path:
- Water in washer not draining, and the cycle has stopped or stalled: that is a drain fault. Go to the drain checks.
- The drum will not turn, or the clothes come out soaking wet but the water is gone: that is a spin fault. Go to the spin checks.
- Water in the drum and the drum will not turn: treat it as a drain fault first, because the drain checks are the cheap ones, then move to the spin checks.
Before you touch anything: safety first
Water and electricity share this job, so do these every time:
- Unplug the washer, or switch off its breaker, before you touch a hose, a filter or a panel.
- Shut off both water taps behind the machine.
- Lay towels down and have a shallow pan ready. There will be water.
- Never bypass a lid switch or a door switch, and never work on the control board with the power on.
Our DIY washing machine repair guide covers the same safety basics in more detail.
Why is my washer not draining?
Something is blocking the water on its way out: a kinked or clogged hose, a clogged pump filter, or suds. If none of those is the cause, the drain pump itself is the next suspect. Here are the causes in the order a technician checks them.
Is it a normal pause, or the wrong load?
Many washers pause between cycle stages for up to about 3 minutes, so wait before you decide it will not drain. On a manual-dial washer, do not turn the dial forward during the pause, because that can skip the pump-out part of the cycle.
If you hear water sloshing but see no water in the drum, that is the balance ring, which is normal.
Too much detergent
Too much detergent can make suds that stop the washer from pumping water out and spinning. If the drum looks full of foam, that is a likely cause. Let the suds settle. From now on, measure the detergent and use the high-efficiency amount if your washer is a high-efficiency model.
A kinked or clogged drain hose, and the standpipe
With the power off and the water shut off, pull the washer out far enough to see the drain hose at the back. Check that it is not kinked or clogged, and straighten it if it is.
Then look at the standpipe, the pipe in the wall that the hose drains into. Three things to know:
- Height matters. GE says full-size washers pump up to about 2.4 m (8 feet) from the floor. Maytag and Whirlpool both give a maximum standpipe height of 96 inches (about 2.4 m). Above that, water can flow back in. The minimum differs between makers, so check the install guide for your own washer.
- Do not push the hose far down the standpipe. A hose pushed in too deep can siphon the water out. Your manual gives the right depth.
- Test the standpipe itself. Take the hose out and pour about a litre (a quart) of water into the standpipe. If it will not drain, the blockage is in your house plumbing and you need a plumber, not a washer technician.
Some models show a drain-fault code when the pump-out takes too long. GE’s code is Po, for example, and your manual lists your own. Our guide to the Maytag F9 E1 and Whirlpool F8 E1 error codes covers the Maytag and Whirlpool drain faults in more detail.
A clogged pump filter (many front-loaders)
Small items from clothing and pockets get caught in the pump filter and can slow or stop the draining. On many front-loaders the filter sits behind a small panel at the bottom front. Check your manual for where yours is.
With the washer unplugged and the taps off, put towels and a shallow pan under the access and unscrew the cap slowly. Water will come out. Clear whatever is in there, refit the cap and run a drain and spin.
Top-loaders are different. Here is how the two layouts compare:
| Check | Front-load | Top-load |
|---|---|---|
| Filter access | Many have the filter behind a small panel at the bottom front | Many have no filter you can reach; check your manual |
| Getting the water out | With the filter cover off, a drain tube (if fitted) can run into a shallow pan | Whirlpool says a top-loader that will not drain may need a professional |
| Belt or motor coupling | Check your manual if the drum will not turn | Motor runs but the drum will not turn: often the drive belt or motor coupling on certain top-loaders |
If your washer is a top-loader and the hose and standpipe are fine, this is the point to call.
Leaking from the bottom when you open the filter, or after you refit it? Our guide to a washing machine leaking from the bottom will help.
A failed drain pump
If the tub is full and the washer hums, the pump is trying but not moving water. If you hear grinding, something is probably jammed in the pump. Either way, stop running cycles, because repeat cycles can burn out the pump motor or cause a leak.
A drain pump replacement runs $180 to $320 all-in.
The control board (less common)
If the control board loses its signal to the drain pump, the washer fills and agitates but never drains. This is less common than the mechanical causes, so rule out the hose, the filter and the pump before anyone blames the board. A control board repair runs $280 to $420 all-in.
Why is my washer not spinning?
Common reasons are a lid or door that is not registering as closed, a load that is out of balance, or a worn drive part. If the water has drained but the clothes are still soaking wet, start with the first two.
The lid switch or door lock
A washer will not spin or drain if it thinks the lid or door is open. A faulty lid switch can also stop the washer from moving on to the drain and spin stages. Press the switch and listen for a click. A lid lock that clicks but does not lock needs replacing.
Please do not tape the switch down or bypass it. It is there so the drum cannot spin while the lid is open. A lid switch or door lock replacement runs $150 to $280 all-in.
An unbalanced or overloaded drum
A washer may stop or refuse to spin when the load is unbalanced or too big. Open it up, spread the clothes out evenly, take some out if it is packed, and restart the spin.
If it keeps happening with a normal load, or the machine is shaking hard, see our guide on why a washing machine shakes or vibrates excessively.
A slow spin setting or a power problem
Gentle, delicate and hand-wash cycles spin slowly and leave clothes wetter. Pick Normal or Heavy Duty for a faster spin. And if the washer is dead or stops mid-cycle, check the plug, any extension cord and the breaker.
A belt or motor coupling (motor hums, drum stays still)
If the motor runs but the drum will not turn, the cause is often the drive belt or the motor coupling, on certain top-loaders. That is a repair, not a home fix. A drive belt replacement runs $150 to $250 all-in, and a motor coupling or drive repair runs $200 to $340 all-in.
A drain fault that is stopping the spin
The two faults are linked. If the tub is full of water and the drum is not turning, go back to the drain checks above before you chase a spin part.
What does washer repair cost?
Washer repairs on our side run $150 to $450 all-in. That price covers the part, the labour and a written 90-day warranty. Bearings are separate, at $450 to $650 or more. By fault, our all-in prices are:
| Repair | Our all-in price |
|---|---|
| Drive belt | $150 to $250 |
| Lid switch or door lock | $150 to $280 |
| Drain pump | $180 to $320 |
| Motor coupling or drive | $200 to $340 |
| Control board | $280 to $420 |
Prices confirmed September 2026.
The $89 service call is credited to the repair when you approve it. No pump, motor or suspension work starts before you have a written quote. Most repairs are done in one visit. For the fuller picture, see our washing machine repair cost guide or the washing machine repair page.
When to stop and call
Stop and call us if any of these is true:
- The tub is full and the washer hums.
- You hear grinding.
- There is a burning smell, or water on the floor. Switch off the breaker first.
- A washing machine not draining after you have cleaned the filter and straightened the hose.
- It is a top-loader that will not drain and the hose and standpipe are fine.
Here is how a visit works. We offer same-day service, 24/7, 365 days a year, with a 2-hour arrival window, and we text ahead. Our vans are fully stocked with common parts such as pumps, belts, valves and door seals. Our technicians are factory-trained, licensed and insured, and work on 25+ major brands. Appliance Forever has 15+ years of experience. You can pay by cash, credit, debit or e-transfer.
Washer not draining or spinning and you would rather not find out the hard way? The $89 visit is credited when you approve the repair. Same-day service, 24/7.
Washer not draining or spinning: quick answers
Why is my washer full of water and not draining?
A kinked or clogged drain hose, a clogged pump filter, or a failing drain pump can all do it. Check the hose and, on a front-loader, the filter behind the bottom panel, with the power off and towels down.
How do I get the water out of a washer that will not drain?
Unplug it and shut the taps. On a front-loader, remove the filter cover and, if your washer has a drain tube, let it run into a shallow pan; check your manual. On a top-loader with a fine hose, call a technician rather than improvising.
Why is my washer not spinning but the water drained?
Check that the lid or door is registering as closed, then that the load is balanced. If the motor hums and the drum stays still, a belt or motor coupling is often the cause on certain top-loaders.
Can too much detergent stop a washing machine from draining?
Yes, it can. Suds can stop the washer from pumping water out and spinning. Measure the detergent and use the high-efficiency amount.
Is it normal for a washer to pause mid-cycle?
Yes. Many models pause between stages for up to about 3 minutes. Give it time, and do not advance a manual dial during the pause.
What does a drain error code mean?
Some models show a code when the pump-out takes too long. GE’s is Po, and your manual lists yours. For Maytag and Whirlpool, see our F9 E1 and F8 E1 error code guide.
Washer not draining or spinning in the GTA?
We come out same-day across the GTA, York Region and Simcoe County. Common washer repairs: $150 to $450 all-in, with a written 90-day warranty on parts and labour. Go ahead with the repair and the $89 visit is credited. See the washer repair price guide or book on our contact page.
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