TL;DR: freezer not freezing
- Start with one question: is the fridge side still cold? If it is, the freezer problem is often airflow: a stopped evaporator fan or frost packed onto the evaporator coil.
- Check the cheap things first. The temperature setting, the door seal, an overfull freezer and blocked vents cost nothing to look at.
- Then the parts a technician checks. Dirty condenser coils, the evaporator fan, the defrost system and, last of all, the sealed system.
- These common parts run $160 to $420 all-in. A sealed-system repair is the exception at $500 to $900 or more.
- Still warm after you have run the checks? Call 647-834-4646. The visit is $89, credited to the repair when you approve it.
Common causes of a freezer not freezing are a setting, a door seal that has stopped sealing, an overfull freezer, dirty coils or a fan that has stopped. Less often, the fault is in the compressor or sealed system. Work out which one in order, cheapest check first. This guide goes in the order a technician checks, and it says plainly when a repair is the next step.
Why is my freezer not freezing but the fridge is cold?
When the freezer is warm and the fridge side is still cool, a likely cause is airflow, not the compressor. Common culprits are a dead evaporator fan or frost packed onto the evaporator coil. A failed compressor can take both sides down, though not always.
That is why this is the first thing to settle: which side is warm?
- Refrigerator working but freezer not freezing: you are in the right place. The causes below are in the order a technician works through them.
- Fridge warm, freezer cold: that is the opposite pattern, with its own causes. Our guide to a Samsung fridge not cooling while the freezer works covers it.
- Both sides warm: start with the checks below, then see our broader guide on diagnosing a fridge that is not cooling properly.
One reason: the fridge sits closer to the evaporator, so it can stay cool for a while even after the air stops reaching the freezer. Treat it as a pattern, not a rule.
How cold should the freezer be?
A freezer should sit at -18°C (0°F). Whirlpool and KitchenAid both say the same: -18°C (0°F) or below is proper freezing, and anything warmer suggests a problem. Frigidaire gives an acceptable operating range of about -21°C to -14°C (-6°F to 6°F) around that setting.
Put a freezer thermometer in the middle of the compartment, not against the wall, and read it after the door has been shut for a while. Do not judge by feel alone. A freezer can feel cold and still be well above where it should be.
Give it time after any change. After you adjust the setting, or after a power outage, Frigidaire says the unit needs 24 hours to stabilize. If it is still not cold after 24 hours of running, it is time to book service. Until then, keep the door shut so the cold stays in.
Cause 1: settings, door seal, overpacking and blocked vents
These are the checks anyone can do. Whatever you check, unplug the fridge or switch off its breaker before you touch anything behind a panel or grille.
Temperature setting and a recent power cut
Look at the dial or the display. A setting knocked up during cleaning, or reset after an outage, is the simplest answer there is. Set it to the -18°C (0°F) target and wait the 24 hours before you decide anything.
One more for Canadian homes. If the fridge lives in a garage or cold room, Frigidaire does not recommend installing the unit where the temperature drops below 13°C (55°F).
Door seal: the paper test
Close a sheet of paper in the freezer door. If it slides out with no resistance, the seal is weak. Clean the gasket with warm soapy water first, then test again.
A seal that is damaged or cracked lets warm air in and will need to be replaced. A new door gasket is $160 to $300 all-in.
An overfull freezer and blocked vents
A packed freezer can block the evaporator fan and the air vents, and food must never stop the door from closing fully. Whirlpool, Maytag and KitchenAid all give the same advice. A blocked vent can leave one zone cold and another warm, with thick ice on the back wall.
Pull items away from the vents and the back wall. Rearrange so air can move. If this was the problem, the freezer should start recovering inside that 24-hour window.
Cause 2: dirty condenser coils
Dirty coils are a common cause of a freezer not freezing. Dust and dirt on the condenser coils block airflow and cut cooling capacity. It can show up as a fridge that works while the freezer struggles. On upright and chest freezers the coils sit inside the walls and are unlikely to be the cause.
To clean them:
- Unplug the appliance first.
- Find the coils, on the back or behind the front base grille at the bottom.
- Clean with a refrigerator coil brush, or a vacuum hose with a soft brush head.
- Refit the grille and plug it back in.
GE says to do this every few months. Other sources give different intervals, so we will not put a number on it. A fan motor on the condenser side is a $200 to $380 repair if cleaning does not fix it.
Cause 3: the evaporator fan has stopped
A stopped evaporator fan can leave you with a freezer not freezing while the fridge side holds. The evaporator fan moves air over the evaporator and into the freezer and fridge. With it dead, the freezer often warms even though the compressor is running, and the fridge can stay cool because it sits closer to the evaporator.
What you see: a warm freezer, a fridge that holds, and a fan you cannot hear. What you can check safely: listen with the door open, and unplug the unit before you go near any rear panel. Never open that panel while the freezer is plugged in.
If the fan is not turning, that is a repair, not a DIY job. An evaporator or condenser fan motor is $200 to $380 all-in.
Cause 4: the defrost system has failed
If the freezer is not freezing and there is frost on the back wall, suspect the defrost system. Ice on the back wall blocks airflow, and food can thaw even though the unit looks normal.
Most modern freezers defrost themselves. The automatic cycle warms the evaporator; if the heater, the defrost thermostat or the timer fails, ice often builds on the back wall.
Frost that builds up quickly or keeps coming back should be looked at by a professional.
Emptying and thawing the freezer is only a temporary measure. If the frost returns, it is a repair. Our guide to a freezer icing up walks through the frost how-to in detail.
A defrost system repair is $190 to $380 all-in. If the fault is the thermostat or the control board, the range is $200 to $420. Never chip at frost with a tool.
Cause 5: the sealed system, a licensed technician’s job
Licensed technician only. The compressor and refrigerant lines are not a DIY repair. They cannot be worked on without special equipment and a licence, and we never advise opening or recharging a sealed system yourself. Call us at 647-834-4646.
If everything above is ruled out, the fault may be in the compressor or the refrigerant circuit. That can take the fridge side down with it. A sealed-system repair runs $500 to $900 or more all-in.
We rule out the cheaper parts first. A failed start relay or capacitor can stop the compressor starting, and that repair is $170 to $320. Most approved repairs are finished in one visit.
Maytag and KitchenAid suggest listening for the compressor to hum for about 30 minutes. If you hear no hum in that time, call for service.
What does each freezer fix cost?
Here is what a freezer not freezing costs to fix. These are our all-in prices on a fridge-freezer. Each covers the part, the labour and a written 90-day warranty. The $89 service call sits outside the table and is credited to the repair when you approve it.
| Repair | Our all-in price | Fixes |
|---|---|---|
| Door gasket (seal) | $160 to $300 | A weak or cracked seal letting warm air in |
| Start relay or capacitor | $170 to $320 | A compressor that will not start |
| Defrost system | $190 to $380 | Frost building on the evaporator |
| Fan motor | $200 to $380 | A stopped evaporator or condenser fan |
| Thermostat or control board | $200 to $420 | Wrong temperature control |
| Compressor or sealed system | $500 to $900+ | A failed sealed system |
Prices confirmed September 2026.
The ranges are the same as in our refrigerator repair cost guide, which also helps you decide whether to repair or replace. Ask what each part costs in any quote you receive.
When to stop and call
You have done what a homeowner safely can. If the freezer is still not freezing, call if any of these is true:
- Nothing in the freezer is getting cold after 24 hours of running.
- The ice comes back after you thaw it.
- The fan is silent and the freezer stays warm.
- You hear no compressor hum for about 30 minutes.
- You are looking at the sealed system, which is never a DIY job.
For more on what you can safely check yourself on a fridge, see our DIY refrigerator repair guide. If the ice maker is also acting up, our guide to an ice maker not working helps.
For the full service, see our refrigerator repair page.
A warm freezer is a quick call to settle. The visit is $89 and comes off the repair when you approve it. We come out same-day, 24/7, with a 2-hour arrival window and a text ahead, in a van stocked with parts. Licensed and insured. Appliance Forever has 15+ years of experience.
Freezer not freezing: quick answers
Why is my freezer not freezing but my fridge is cold?
A freezer not freezing while the fridge is cold is often airflow: a stopped evaporator fan, or frost on the evaporator that blocks the air. The fridge sits closer to the evaporator, so it can stay cool a while longer.
Why is my freezer running but not freezing?
The compressor can run while cold air never reaches the freezer. A dead evaporator fan, or a failed defrost system that lets ice build on the back wall, can cause it.
How long does a freezer take to get cold again?
Give it 24 hours after a change or a power outage. If it is still not cool after 24 hours of running, schedule service.
Can a dirty condenser coil stop a freezer freezing?
Yes. Dust and dirt on the coils reduce cooling capacity. Unplug the unit and clean them with a coil brush or a soft vacuum head.
Is it worth repairing a freezer that will not freeze?
When the fault is one common part, such as a fan motor, the defrost system or a door gasket, the repair is $160 to $420 all-in. A sealed-system repair is $500 to $900 or more. Our refrigerator repair cost guide helps you decide.
Freezer not freezing in the GTA?
We come out same-day across the GTA, York Region and Simcoe County. Freezer trouble in Simcoe County? See fridge repair in Barrie. York Region readers can go to appliance repairs in Newmarket. If you live where we are based, start with Bradford appliance repair. Common repairs are $160 to $420 all-in, and a sealed-system repair is $500 to $900 or more. Go ahead and the $89 visit is credited; every repair has a written 90-day warranty on parts and labour. Book through our contact page.
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